Rajasthan · Western Rajasthan (Thar Desert)
Jaisalmer
A sandstone fort city at the edge of the Thar, with dunes and desert camps close by
- Best time
- October to February
- Ideal stay
- 2 nights (1 in town, 1 in the desert)
- Nearest airport
- Jaisalmer (JSA), a small airport with limited flights; Jodhpur (about 285 km) is the usual alternative
- Railway
- Jaisalmer station, with an overnight route from Delhi and a daytime train from Jodhpur
- From Jodhpur
- About 285 to 300 km. 5 to 6 hours by road or train
- Known for
- Jaisalmer Fort, Patwon ki Haveli, Sam dunes and desert camps
Jaisalmer at a glance
Jaisalmer was founded in 1156 by Rawal Jaisal of the Bhati Rajputs, and grew rich as a stop on the caravan routes that ran between India and Central Asia. The fort he built is made of yellow sandstone that looks gold in the evening light, which is where the nickname 'Golden City' comes from. It is one of the few forts in India where people still live inside the walls.
The city is small and easy to cover on foot. Most visitors spend one day on the fort, the havelis and the lakeside, and one evening and night out in the dunes. Distances are large outside the town, so it pays to decide in advance what kind of desert experience you want.
Jaisalmer is close to the international border, and some desert areas to the west need permits. Regular tourist spots such as Sam and Khuri don't, but a local operator will tell you if that changes.
Best time to visit Jaisalmer
October to February is the season. Days are warm rather than hot, nights are cold, and the desert camps are open with full programmes.
| Months | Weather | What it means for a trip |
|---|---|---|
| Oct – Nov | Days around 30 to 35°C, cooler evenings | Good for sightseeing. Camps start filling up around Diwali; book ahead. |
| Dec – Jan | Days of 20 to 25°C; desert nights can fall to 5°C or below | Peak season. Bring warm layers for the night in the dunes. |
| Feb | Days of 25 to 30°C, nights cool | The Desert Festival is usually held in January or February with folk music, turban-tying and camel events. |
| Mar | Getting hot, 35°C and above | Camps still run but afternoons are hot. Keep sightseeing to mornings. |
| Apr – Sep | Very hot, up to 45°C in May and June | Off-season for tourism. Many camps close and flights may be reduced. Not recommended unless you're used to desert heat. |
How to reach Jaisalmer
- By air
- Jaisalmer has a small airport (JSA), about 17 km from town, shared with the military. Commercial flights have been seasonal and limited, so check the current schedule before planning around it. Most travellers fly into Jodhpur (about 285 km) or Jaipur and continue by road.
- By train
- Jaisalmer has an overnight train from Delhi via Jodhpur and a daytime train from Jodhpur that takes about 6 hours over roughly 300 km. Jaisalmer station is central. There is no direct train from Udaipur.
- By road
- Jodhpur is about 285 to 300 km, Bikaner about 330 km, Jaipur about 560 to 650 km depending on the route, and Udaipur about 490 to 590 km. Roads are good but distances are long; most drivers split the Jaipur route with a night in Jodhpur or Bikaner.
Things to do in Jaisalmer
1.Jaisalmer Fort (Sonar Qila)
A UNESCO-listed hill fort with an inhabited old town inside, including shops, guesthouses and a group of Jain temples. The Fort Palace Museum covers the Bhati rulers, and the ramparts give views across the town and toward the desert.
Time needed: 2 to 3 hours·Tip: Walk in rather than drive. Bring a light scarf for the temples, which are open mornings only.
2.Patwon ki Haveli and other havelis
A cluster of five connected mansions built in the early 19th century by a family of brocade merchants, with carved balconies and painted rooms. Nathmal ki Haveli and Salim Singh ki Haveli are also worth seeing, the latter for its curved, peacock-shaped upper storey.
Time needed: 1.5 to 2 hours
3.Gadisar Lake
A rainwater reservoir with a gateway, small temples and pavilions at the edge. Good for a slow morning walk or a paddle boat.
Time needed: 1 hour
4.Sam Sand Dunes
The most developed dune area, about 40 km west of town, with camel rides, jeep safaris, folk performances and many tented camps. It is busy at sunset in the season, so most people stay overnight to see the dunes when the crowds have left.
Time needed: Sunset to next morning·Tip: Camel rides are best at sunset. Agree the length and price of any ride before you start.
5.Khuri dunes
Smaller and quieter than Sam, about 40 to 45 km south-west of town. The village has mud-walled huts, and camps here tend to be cheaper and less commercial.
Time needed: Sunset to next morning
6.Bada Bagh
A garden with royal cenotaphs of Jaisalmer's rulers, a few kilometres north of the city, with a line of wind turbines in the background. Mostly visited at sunset.
Time needed: 45 minutes
7.Kuldhara
A ruined village about 18 km from town, said to have been abandoned overnight by its Paliwal Brahmin community in the early 19th century. The ruined streets and houses are quiet and photogenic, though the story behind the abandonment is legend.
Time needed: 1 hour
8.Desert National Park
A protected area of dunes and scrub, home to the critically endangered great Indian bustard as well as chinkara and desert foxes. Sightings of the bustard are rare and not guaranteed.
Time needed: Half a day
9.Jaisalmer War Museum
A modern museum on the road to Sam with displays on the Indian Army, including the 1971 Longewala battle. It's a change of pace from the forts.
Time needed: 1 hour
10.Camel or jeep safari
Short camel rides around the dunes last about an hour; longer safaris last a night or more and cost more. Jeep safaris cover more ground and can include Kuldhara and other stops.
Time needed: 1 hour to overnight
Sample itineraries for Jaisalmer
One day (without the desert night)
- 9 am: Jaisalmer Fort and the Fort Palace Museum, then the Jain temples before noon.
- 1 pm: Lunch, then Patwon ki Haveli and Nathmal ki Haveli.
- 4 pm: Gadisar Lake, then Bada Bagh for sunset.
Two days with a desert night
- Day 1 morning: Fort and havelis.
- Day 1 afternoon: Drive to Sam or Khuri, check in to the camp, ride out to the dunes for sunset.
- Day 1 evening: Dinner and folk music at the camp.
- Day 2 morning: Sunrise on the dunes, breakfast, then return to town via Kuldhara if time allows.
Three days
- Days 1 and 2 as above.
- Day 3: Desert National Park and the Jaisalmer War Museum, or an early drive towards Jodhpur with a stop at Osian.
Where to stay in Jaisalmer
- Inside the fort
- Old guesthouses in the fort lanes with rooftop views. Water use by hotels inside the fort has long been a conservation concern for the structure, so some visitors prefer to stay just outside and visit during the day.
- Just outside the fort (Gopa Chowk, Amar Sagar Pol)
- Haveli hotels and guesthouses within walking distance of the fort. A good balance of atmosphere and convenience.
- Desert camps at Sam and Khuri
- From basic tents with shared facilities to luxury Swiss tents with private bathrooms and heating. The night in the dunes is the point, so it's worth picking a camp rather than leaving it to chance on arrival.
- Resorts on the outskirts
- Larger resorts with pools and gardens, further from town. Good for families and groups.
What to eat and buy in Jaisalmer
- Rajasthani thalis and desert vegetables
- Ker sangri (dried desert berries and beans), gatte ki sabzi and bajra roti are typical dishes here, made without much fresh produce because of the climate.
- Rooftop cafés
- Many guesthouses and cafés around the fort have rooftops with views of the walls, which are best at sunset.
- Bhang lassi
- Government-licensed shops sell bhang lassi. It is a cannabis-based drink and can be strong; take it easy and don't drink it before a camel ride.
- Textiles and mirror-work
- Embroidered bedspreads, quilts and mirror-work bags are the main souvenirs. Shops outside the fort are often better priced than those inside.
- Leather and silver
- Leather bags and shoes, and silver jewellery and small brass items, are sold around the fort and Bhatia Bazaar.
Day trips and stops near Jaisalmer
| Place | Distance | Why go |
|---|---|---|
| Sam Sand Dunes | About 40 km | The main dune area with camps and camel rides. |
| Khuri | About 40 to 45 km | Quieter dunes and mud-hut village. |
| Kuldhara | About 18 km | A ruined village on the Sam road. |
| Akal Wood Fossil Park | About 17 km | Fossilised tree trunks estimated to be around 180 million years old. |
| Tanot Mata and Longewala | About 120 km | Border temple and war memorial. Special permissions may be needed; ask locally. |
| Bikaner | About 330 km | Junagarh Fort and the camel research centre; see the separate guide. |
What Jaisalmer costs
| Budget hotel (per room, per night) | About ₹1,000 to ₹2,500 |
|---|---|
| Mid-range hotel or heritage haveli | About ₹3,000 to ₹7,000 |
| Desert camp (per person, with dinner, folk show and a camel ride) | About ₹1,500 to ₹3,000 for a standard camp; luxury tents ₹8,000 and up in peak season |
| Short camel ride at the dunes | About ₹300 to ₹800 depending on length |
| Fort Palace Museum | Around ₹50 for Indian adults, more for foreign visitors |
| Havelis (Patwon, Salim Singh) | Small entry fees, roughly ₹20 to ₹100 |
| A sit-down meal | About ₹200 to ₹700 per person |
Fees, timings and prices last checked in September 2026. They change from season to season, so treat them as a guide and confirm at the ticket counter or with us when we plan your trip.
Practical tips
- Book the desert camp before you arrive during peak months, and ask exactly what is included: transfers, camel ride, dinner, breakfast, and whether bathrooms are private.
- December and January nights in the dunes are properly cold. Bring a fleece and a jacket.
- Sam is more organised but more crowded; Khuri is quieter. Pick according to what you want.
- Walk the fort at opening time. Guesthouses and shops in the lanes are open, but tour groups arrive later.
- Camel rides near the dunes are priced by length and can be negotiated. Agree before you start.
- Border-area permissions can change. Ask your operator before heading toward Tanot or Longewala.
Jaisalmer travel FAQs
How many days do you need in Jaisalmer?
Two nights works well: a day for the fort and havelis, and a night in a desert camp. Add a third day if you want Desert National Park or the war memorials.
Is Sam or Khuri better for a desert camp?
Sam is more developed, with more camps, more activities and a bigger crowd. Khuri is quieter, cheaper and feels more like a village. Pick Sam for a full programme and Khuri for peace.
What is the best time to visit Jaisalmer?
October to February, with November to January the most comfortable. Summers are very hot and many camps close.
Can I fly to Jaisalmer?
There is an airport, but flights have been limited and seasonal. Check current schedules; many travellers fly to Jodhpur and continue by road or train.
Is it safe to stay inside the fort?
Yes, but conservationists have raised concerns about water use by the guesthouses and hotels inside the fort. If that matters to you, stay just outside and visit by day.
How far is Jaisalmer from Jodhpur?
About 285 to 300 km. It takes 5 to 6 hours by road and about 6 hours by train.
Trips that include Jaisalmer
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The unhurried version — Jaipur, the holy lake at Pushkar, Jodhpur, Jaisalmer and its dunes, Udaipur, and the cool hill retreat of Mount Abu, staying in palace and heritage hotels throughout.
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